Sun care: a public health cause
A discussion with dermatologist Professor Thierry Passeron, MD, PhD, Dermatology Department, Université Côte d’Azur & INSERM, Nice, and Françoise Bernerd, PhD, Head of L’Oréal’s Light and Pigmentation Laboratory, L’Oréal Research & Innovation Fellow, on an important public health issue: the impact of UV rays on the skin and how best to protect it.
UV rays: what are the health risks?
THIERRY PASSERON
Thierry Passeron: UVs play a very important role in skin cancer, melanoma and skin carcinoma. They also play a very important role in the skin-ageing process, worsening the appearance of wrinkles, but also triggering pigmentation marks. UVs also worsen many dermatoses such as acne, some pigmentation disorders such as melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, which frequently occur after surgical or cosmetic procedures, for example.
How can we protect skin against UV rays?
FRANÇOISE BERNERD
Yes, in order to avoid the harmful consequences of sun exposure as explained by Professor Passeron, we should indeed take the right steps, in terms of photoprotection and sunscreen. Although awareness of the dangers is increasing, it is still insufficient, and we need to educate people further. One of the obstacles to increased use of photoprotection is that, too often, it is associated only with the risk of sunburn. People who tan easily or who have more pigmented skin often overestimate their natural protection. They believe that they are protected because they are less susceptible to sunburn, but in fact, they have a very high susceptibility to other clinical risks such as pigmentation disorders and the development of hyperpigmented lesions. Another barrier to the use of sunscreen—which comes up a lot—is their texture. However, we have made incredible progress in the past few years. We can now offer suncare products with very light, fluid and sensorial textures, which are an important incentive for the correct and regular application needed for efficient photoprotection.
What are the latest discoveries about UV rays?
THIERRY PASSERON
We have acquired considerable knowledge about the impact of UVAs, more specifically, longwave UVAs, which have wavelengths closest to visible light. We know now that these wavelengths play a very important role in skin cancer and specifically melanoma. And this new knowledge is very important because longwave UVAs are much more constant throughout the day and the year. They go through clouds and windows, and they penetrate much deeper into the skin than UVBs.
What are L’Oréal’s latest innovations?
FRANÇOISE BERNERD
Based on the new knowledge of the effects of long UVA rays, L’Oréal Research & Innovation has decided to develop a new long UVA filter for Mexoryl 400. We are very pleased because this long UVA filter has now been approved by the European authorities based on its efficacy, of course, but also on human and environmental safety. Thanks to the use of this new Mexoryl 400, we have proven gains in photoprotection regarding biological functions and also in many clinical studies.
